3.61 Stitch type 500 has 22 different subgroups. 3.269626923 Six stitch types are specified in the ASTM D 6193-97 Standard Practices for Stitches standard. method to evaluate seam slippage. As per description the equations The grade of fabric is the grade of the reference specimen which matches most nearly to sample fabric specimen [24]. 5.00 ASTM 1683-04 standard for evaluation of seam quality. One of the most popular of this class is the Lap felled type, involving only one stitching operation a strong seam with fabric edges commonly used to protect jeans or similar garments from fraying. 5 According to ( Behera, 1997b; Kothari, 1999), Seam slippage is expressed as the transverse ratio of seam strength to fabric strength including the ratio of elongation of fabric to the ratio of elongation at the seam. slippage to take place. 4.70 There is another term called 'yarn slippage' which measures the shifting of warp yarn over weft yarn to render the garment unusuable. insufficient tension on threads, or improper stitch The results show that seam slippage and strength properties can be well explained in terms of fabric tensile properties. Poly. 0.8567 4.00 217.60 4.85 This type of seam requires only one component. according to fitting normal curve 0.00 TABLE NO.-7 Y=logY0 0.11 These are fabric construction (yarn construction, structure, tightness, etc. (3.1), of exponential equation for cover factor(x2) vs. Thickness 7.19 4096.36 4 5.97 Take the average of readings to get the seam strength. The exponential equation is y0=abx2 thread. Eq. very badly. Seam and stitch types affect the quality and appearance of garments. 4.70 2005; Gurada, 2008) have suggested measuring seam slippage according to the 14.04941 SEAM Seam performance of the garment depends on the fabric cover factor, fabric weight, thickness, tensile strength, fabric shrinkage along the fabric length and width, resiliency, bending rigidity, flexural rigidity and shear rigidity [15]. This type of seam requires two components. 0.8567 X1 154.80A + 3062.66B = 112.3232 Y0=0.27*X210------------(2.3), Seam slippage strength 8000 Y0=0.75*X12.51------------(1.3), VS. SEAM SLIPPAGE STRENGTH Stitch types are shown as a numerical designation relating to the essential characteristics of the interlacing of sewing thread in a stitch. STRENGTH(Kg/c 1.1896 Seam types are shown as an alphanumeric designation relating to the essential characteristics of fabric positioning and rows of stitching in a seam. Avoid the readings of the test when rupture occurred, 2. 7.19 3.95 The exponential equation is y0=abxgc XGC Correlation Appearance and performance of the seams are dependent upon the stitch and seam types, stitch and seam parameters, seam defects and damages. 0.00 fabric, rpm of the machine, GSM of the fabric , X3 These two factors together and their performance properties add to the quality of the apparel products. 38.3612 217.60 ASTM D1683 Fabric Seam Strength Testing - ADMET 2.1747 4096.36 5.97 Sewing needle penetration force and fabric deformation during sewing are effective factors for seam performance. The quality seam contributes to the overall performance of the apparel in use. thickness(x3) vs. Seam slippage strength(y0) In this context, stitch and seam types used in garments are explained. 0.39 TOTAL The stitch width determines how far the stitch will go from side to side. 0.5527 So one can avoid seam slippage by choosing lapped seam type while stitching. 16.74 0.202295 (5), the difference between original length and puckered length gives a percentage for seam pucker. according to fitting normal curve The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. 0.36 0.1983 0.3298 0.6314 12.97 slide together along other yarns or a line of value 0.33(table no: - 7) with seam slippage strength which indicates SEAM SLIPPAGE 0.09 0.09 stress and strain occurs during wear. equation we get SEAM Finer needle size, bulged-eye needles and lower sewing speed can reduce mechanical sewing damage [29, 30]. Various other factors influencing the seam strength and Seam type BSa-1 is formed by folding a binding strip over the edge of the ply or plies of body material and seaming the binding strip and body material with one or more rows of stitches. 4 (3.1), of exponential equation constants (series 1) for 0.725265487 By solving this above two equation Each stitched seam is identified by a numerical designation composed of five digits. 4. In clothing construction, seams are classified by their type (plain, lapped, bound, flat) and position in the finished garment (centre back seam, inseam, side seam). 4 2.2668 8 Warp 8A + 10.25B = 5.7200 6 Seam appearance with different seam pucker degree [23]. in case of woven garments and it degrades the product London, SW7 2QJ, 0.6314 19.5542 warp yarns slipping over weft yarns, i.e. M2)(Y0) square method are No. 3.75 Resistance to slippage of yarns in woven fabrics can be measured according to ASTM D 434-75 Resistance to Slippage of Yarns in Woven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam standard [6]. 50.495236 Seam Strength | ASTM D1683 | Textile testing - YouTube 0.5966 3.7 Usually we use fusing material to increase the strength of specific pattern like collar, cuff, etc. Seam allowance is the area between the edge and the stitching line on two or more pieces of material being stitched together. stitching. 4.07 WOVEN 1.238566 X=logX2 8A + 1.87B = 5.7200 5905.70 7.80 422.58889 Seam slippage may also be affected by stitch 0.6857 Y*X Get all latest content delivered straight to your inbox. 1.81 4798.4100 0.16 4.70 17.57 7 6 5600.85 X=logXGC Log y0 = log a + blogx2 The exponential equation is y0=abxgt STRENGTH(Kg/ Sometimes sewing threads runs with wrong thread tension which results in loose stitches, puckering, etc. Therefore, high strength seams are preferred in these areas. 19.3 Seams of the garment must be durable and smooth. 4 3 Taking logarithm of both the sides with base 10 2.1 1. 7.11 ess (x) 16.74 5.97 Regression An approximately linear relationship between the temperature and thickness has also been observed. the other sewing parameters unchanged. Thermal and mechanical damages affect the aesthetics and performance of the garment. where ND is the needle damage index due to fusing, severance or deflection (%), Ny is the number of yarns damaged in the direction evaluated and Pn is the number of needle penetrations. Comfort is one of the most important parameters of clothing. thickness(x3) vs. Seam slippage strength(y0) Should Material Testing Be Done On-Site or at a Testing Facility? 18.46 5.47 SL. In the present work, fabrics of different blend proportions i.e., cotton and 8A + 27.02B = 5.7200 0.09 *Address all correspondence to: aycagur@uludag.edu.tr. 4.85 Any movements of warp & weft yarns away from a seam line under transverse stresses exacerbate the potential slippage. 274.00 Y0=1.76*1.06X2------------(2.2), of exponential equation for cover factor(x2) vs. Seam ScopeThis test method covers that how seam slippage test perform by using ASTM standard. 1.867096 Y0 X=logX1 Broken, skipped or missing stitches and seam pucker occur during the sewing process. 4.43 What is Seam Slippage (Seam Slippage Test), Sourcing Merchandiser at Reliance Retail Ltd. || 4.07 The exponential equation is y0=abx3 Seam type OSa-2 is produced with one or more straight rows of stitches. As per description the equations There are eight classes of seams defined as per ISO 4916:1991. slippage strength(y0) The middle range of the stitch length for a zig-zag stitch is 2.5mm and stitch width is 3 or 4mm. Taking logarithm of both the sides with base 10 4.70 0.6096 5.00 0.087025 26462.28 Working Areas - Apparel Merchandising, Fashion Retail Management, Garment Manufacturing || 2359.31 4.70 to define seam slippage accurately as a function of different 4.07 0.5966 Introduction Fabrics made from both natural and manufactured fibres have been extensively used for clothing, decoration and industrial applications. My Textile Notes: Seam Strength Vs. Seam Slippage - Blogger 5.942627807 method are 20 0.6096 2 As per description the equations according to fitting normal curve by least The exponential equation is y0=ax2b 7.80 0.00 4.07 BETWEEN (X2& 2.00 50.6763 3 8 7.00 Y0 With COVER Stitch type 201 is formed with two needle threads which passed through the material in the same perforations from opposite directions without interlacing or interlooping. Using fitting exponential curve we get the following table If you do not allow these cookies we will not know when you have visited our site, and will not be able to monitor its performance. cm2)(Y0)) factor(xgc) The difference between seam slippage and seam strength . 0.882289 4.70 potential slippage. THREAD For any queries please get in touch at - akashsdeshmukh96@gmail.com, Marketing Department In Textile And Fashion Industry-With Marketing Mix & 7Ps, What is Seam Slippage (Seam Slippage Test). 7.00 12.97 It is critical to choose the correct sewing needle size for the correct sewing machine, sewing thread and fabric weight. STRENGTH(KG BETWEEN (X1& Y0) However before rupturing there is an unacceptable opening in the seam which makes the seam 'failed' commercially even when there is no visible rupture. 10.1226 1.6854 206.3860 Seams are basic requirements in the manufacturing of garments. according to fitting normal curve by least They help us to know which pages are the most and least popular and see how visitors move around the site. 35.66 4.85 0.37 2)(Y0) 14.22249 3.95 3 Y0=3.97*1.006XGT------------(5.2) During the stitching, fabric may be damaged by a sewing needle mechanically. Seam type LSa-1 is formed by overlapping two or more plies of material a specified distance and seaming with one or more rows of stitches. 0.8567 Seam strength - It is the force required to break open the seam either by breaking the thread or by breaking the sewn material. 20.00 0.6721 3 are different G.S.M.,cover factor,thickness value 64.60 0.36 7 0.39 5 Assuming log y0 = y , log a = a , logx3 = x , we have y =bx + a X2 As per description the equations The superficially similar French seam type involves two stitching operations with an intervening folding operation a flat, folded seam with only one row of stitching visible on the top surface. Home shoe making, dressmaking, quilting, crafts, haute couture and tailoring may use a combination of hand and machine sewing. Sewing thread breaks during sewing process disrupts the continuity of sewing process [27]. Eq. 0.8344 5. properties have also been reviewed. Thread type and size. 280.093696 we get, How Can I Ensure My Products Meet ASTM Standards? y0) (r130) . 7.19 Low seam efficiency values indicate that the sewn fabric is damaged during sewing. 8A + 154.80B = 5.7200 Gauge length is distance between two jaws which 200 mm. X22 No. 1.32 elongation of fabric to the ratio of elongation at the seam. TOTAL 4.85 dependency and co-relation between seam Seam slippage, which affects the sewn seam, can also be measured by subtracting the elongation of the fabric from that of the fabric with a seam in it. Though the stitch types chosen for a seam depend on the functional or aesthetic requirements of the seam, seam quality can be measured based on the following parameters: The Pavilions, Bridgwater Road, 3 Without COEFFICIENT between (x3& Its the 'line' that is formed by sewing together no:- 5 Seam slippage strength(y0) 1.1035 4.70 Seam efficiency is the ratio of seam strength to fabric strength. 0.6314 4.85 38.19 -5.60 3.77 If the item is an extremely tight fit, excessive 6000 GSM, cover factor, thickness & develop an empirical Stitch efficiency can be optimized through various factors, such as fabric structure, seam type, type and density of stitches and the selection of sewing threads and needles. Pattern, design or fabric requirements for the garment determine which seam allowance will be used. As previously described, when the seam itself is strong (resistant thread, high stitch density) the fabric may fail first, either by slippage (behaviour type 2 or 3 as classified by Gribaa et al., 2006 ), or by rupture (type 4 behaviour). 346.00 Basically their are 6 main types of feeding namely, v. Differential bottom and top variable feed. 354.38686 18.46 64.30 Y*X1 1.497323403 The testapplies to the standard seam. 0.6314 1.146144 0.5966 11.2535 0.6721 6 Seam and stitch types affect the quality and appearance of garments.
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